Sunday, August 17, 2008

Bhaktupur- Quite the Adventure




The trek started from Hotel Tradition around 10:30 a.m. We were supposed to leave at 10 a.m., but you have to factor in 'nepali time', which always adds an extra 20-30 minutes. We walked to Ratna Park, where the 'bus station' lives, We walked out of Thamel and a little South past where Bigyan works at the Bank. (About 25 minutes).
The buses are all labeled in Nepali script, so of course we do not understand a lick. Um, how the heck are we supposed to find our destination? This is so crazy! There is so much yelling, and traffic, and people going everywhere and jumping in and out of buses- nothing like I have ever seen before. So, we just ask around to the drivers and find the one that nods 'yes' to Bhaktupur.
The 5 of us jump in and our first bus ended up not getting us very far. the roads in Nepal are less than reliable and for the first 100 yards I felt I was on the bumper cars ride at Six Flags. My stomach literally dropped to the floor the pits in the road were so deep. Well, we sort of got the picture when the bus driver turned off the engine and all the pasengers left the vehicle :)
On attempt #2, we found another bus in the midst of all the chaos (people yelling destinations, and trying to get you on their bus, passengers hectically attempting to get to their destinations- lots of honking- its pretty stressful!!). The 20 rupee ride tooke a little over an hour. We were definitely winging it because none of us (Michael, Christine, Latissa, Emma and I ) had ever been here... We finally made it!
We saw the signs and followed the way to the entrance. A man stopped us. What? 750 rupees tourist tax to enter? Are you kidding me? No way we were doing that. 750 rupees = two night stay in our favorite hotel in Thamel... We used the charpi there and said "No thank you" and ventured on our way to a different back entrance (My apologies, Nepalese govt). We walked out the same road, hooked a left and found a smaller path seemingly headed to the right destination. We were right! We totally skeemed our way into Bhaktupur Durbar Square! Not that we were totally proud of that or anything, but we do stand strong to not be ripped off yet another time....
(I have heard people say that there are 3 religions in Nepal :Buddhism, Hinduism and TOURISM) Go figure- it doesn't surprise me at all.

The area was nice and much cleaner and less crowded than typical Kathmandu. The roads were stoned and the buildings looked totaly historic- similar to Kathmandu Durbar Square in that regard. I definitely got some good pics.
We ate on the terrace of a restaurant- some local hotel- and the view was amazing. I ordered veggie chow mein for 60 rupees and a banana laggi (could have done without the later).
In Nepal, it always takes FOREVER to get your food at a restaurant. If you get your food within 30-45 minutes, you are doing good. So by the time our food came, precicesly 53 minutes later, we were satiated.
The whole time we were in Bhaktupur, we were on the look out for men in uniform looking for our tax-paid ticket. If they demanded this, we definitely would have been screwed.
I wonder how long this 'secret entrance' will go unnoticed? It wasn't like it was easy to find- we definitely had some meticulous eyes in our group. They definitely do not take our volunteer card here! ha!
I was sitting on the bus and noticed something worthwhile about Nepali people. They definitely do not have a complex about what Americans would consider rude: staring. People uncontrolably stare at you for minutes upon minutes to the point that they will not look away, even if you stare back. That was an amazing and uncomfortable discovery....
People are also riding on the roof of our bus.... In America, I am pretty much sure that is very illegal, but the Nepalis consider it custom (and its free, so why not!!?)

I will write about my mountain bike trek and more about my host family and children in the home ASAP!

Love,
J

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